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Why Should I Get My Cards Graded?

One of the most common questions we receive at Relic Card Grading is “why should I get my cards graded?” So, that said, we thought would discuss some of the reasons why collectors, hobbyists, and investors choose to get their cards graded. However, in then end, it’s really up to the individual to determine whether or not getting their sports, TCG, or other types of collectible cards graded is right for them.

GRADED CARDS ARE SIMPLY WORTH MORE THAN RAW CARDS

Probably the most common reason card collectors choose to get their cards graded is “value.” Historically, graded cards are worth more than their raw counterparts, and, in some cases, significantly more. For example, we have seen Michael Jordan cards, from the 1986 Fleer set, that grade a 10, sell for more than 100 times its raw counterpart. Even a grade 7 would likely sell for more than 4 times what a raw card would (just an estimate of course). To put this in perspective, you are talking about potentially thousands, if not tens of thousands, of dollars more. Now, this is obviously an extreme example, because the 1986 Fleer card, which is considered by most hobbyists to be Michael Jordan’s rookie card, is still one of the most highly sought after cards around. However, in nearly every instance, graded cards bring more value compared to their raw counterparts. So, why is this? Well, there are a few factors to consider:

  • The first factor to mention is card quality. Every card grading company has a standardized card grading scale (at least they should). When card grading companies evaluate cards for quality, they take a number of factors into consideration. These include, but are not limited to, surface quality, corner and edge integrity, centering, and other factors that may impact the overall aesthetic value and quality of the card. In short, when a card is graded, it has been professionally evaluated and potentially even compared to other cards on the market before given a final grade. In short, when it comes time to sell your prized possession, hobbyists and investors alike, want to know the quality of what they are getting, and they will typically pay more for that assurance.
  • The next factor is authentication. Do you know if the card you are buying is real? Could it be an after-market knock-off? Well, getting your cards graded minimizes some of the risk. Card graders have examined thousands and thousands of cards and typically have authentic cards available for comparison. While there’s no guarantee here, there is a much higher chance your card is authentic if you purchase a graded card (with some caveats of course, but that’s an article for another day). In short, knowing a card is authentic is extremely important to collectors which also increases the value of graded cards.
Okay, we have established the number one reason why collectors and hobbyists get their cards graded, but there are a number of other answers to the question “why should I get my cards graded?

COLLECTIBLE AESTHETICS & DISPLAY

Okay, so this may not be a readily apparent reason for why collectors get their cards graded, but, believe it or not, this is a big factor. Many collectors (myself included) really like to display their favorite collectible cards and displaying them in shoe boxes just isn’t right… While a case could be made for using magnetic cases to display your cards, there’s really nothing quite like an ultrasonically sealed slab with a cool label (at least in our opinion).  Many card grading companies (including Relic Card Grading) have made a marked improvement in the overall look of graded card slabs and labels in recent years. After all, if you are going to pay to get your cards graded, you don’t want them coming back in flimsy slabs or with an ugly labels. In short, display and aesthetics play a role in why individuals choose to get their cards graded.

CARD PROTECTION

Hobbyists and collectors are always looking for new ways to protect their cards over time and getting your cards graded is a great way to accomplish this. There are varying degrees of protection to mention here. First, there’s the popular penny sleeve. Penny sleeves themselves are great for minimizing the risk of surface damage, but edge and corner damage can, and often does, still occur. On top of this, your cards are still, to some extent, exposed to the elements because the card is not sealed inside.

The next level of protection would be to take your card and penny sleeve and slide it into a top-loader. We agree, this will help protect your card(s), but have you ever seen a thin card placed in a top-loader that’s to big? have you ever seen what happens when you turn that top-loader upside down? Yeah, that card is hitting the ground before you know it. It’s common practice to ship raw cards in top-loaders but, as any veteran card collector will admit, you better tape the opening of the top-loader or there’s a good chance the card will slip out during shipping.

Probably the best commercially available option for card protection would be the magnetic card holder. Of course, we are assuming you select the right size and don’t accidentally drop it on the floor. The other disadvantage of most magnetic card holders is the thickness and/or transparency of the plastic, while this has nothing to do with card protection, it still ties into the aesthetic value section above.

Most card graders ensure there is minimal card movement inside their slabs and, being most slabs are ultrasonically sealed, the exposure to the external environment is greatly minimized. So, there are a lot of ways to protect your cards but, in our opinion, properly fit graded card slabs is the way to go.

PERSONAL PREFERENCNE

In reality, a big reason why collectors decide to get their cards graded, or not, boils down to personal preference and the goals they have as a collector. In the end it’s up to you to determine whether or not card grading is right for you, but, we thought we would attempt to answer the question “why should I get my cards graded?” Hopefully we provided a bit of food for thought. – Happy collecting

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How to prep & ship your cards for grading

There are a lot of things that need to go right in order for your sports and gaming cards to get the best grade possible. Pulling a nearly flawless card from a pack, preserving your find using card storage best practices, understanding what grading companies are looking for when they grade cards, and so much more. However, on of the most important tasks, which is often times overlooked, is prepping and shipping your sports or TCG cards for grading. This may seem a little overwhelming to the new hobbyist or collect, but it really isn’t too difficult, especially if you have plan and have the tools and supplies needed to successfully submit your cards for grading. So, let’s get to the planning.

PREP YOUR CARDS FOR GRADING

It’s always a good idea to ensure your cards are in great condition prior to shipping. While the purpose of this article is not to delve deep into card grading details, it’s still a really good idea to screen your cards and ensure they are free of any dust and/or fingerprints before sending them out for grading. As you have probably witnessed, those holo, Prizm, and other ultra-glossy cards are extremely prone to fingerprints. That said, here are some tips and products many collectors and hobbyists have used to prepare their cards for shipment.

  1. WEAR GLOVES WHEN PREPPING YOUR CARDS: Use gloves that won’t shed or leave any residue on your cards. This is important for a number of reasons. First, minimizing the risk of your sweat from touching the surface of your cards. This may seem minor, but sweat is mainly composed of water, but it also contains salts, sugars, ammonia, urea, and other chemicals which all have the potential to damage your cards long term. So, why take the risk (especially when handling highly valuable cards)? Second, handling your cards with gloves minimizes the risk of scratching your cards with your fingernails. This may not seem like an overly apparent reason to use gloves, but, if you have ever wiped down your cards before, you know just how close your nails are to the surface of the card. This just adds a bit of a protective barrier between your nails and your cards – just in case. Lastly, what happens when you are ready to put your card back into that penny sleeve? Well, undoubtedly, you are going to touch the surface of the card and all of your cleaning work will be for naught if you aren’t wearing gloves. One last note, make sure the gloves you are wearing are also chemical free. We like to use nitrile gloves that are free of ammonia, latex (in case you are allergic), powder.
  2. INVEST IN SIMPLE CARD GRADING TOOLS: In general, anyone sending their cards in for grading wants to get the highest grade possible. So why not take a closer look at your cards before sending them off for grading? You can pick up really inexpensive centering tools, lights, magnifiers, etc. that could help you determine whether or not it’s worth sending your cards in for grading. Print defects (i.e. print lines, dimples, etc,), edge/corner wear, surface scratches, and other minor card issues can easily be picked up under the right lighting conditions and under 4-10x magnification. So, if you are looking for that perfect 10, it’s a good idea to do a little homework up front.
  3. AMMONIA-FREE/OIL-FREE QUICK DRY LENS WIPES: As mentioned above, you want to avoid any chemicals that could damage the surface of your card(s) and you also want to minimize any moisture migration into the card itself. So, while low-moisture, ammonia-free, quick-dry wipes are used and recommended by many collectors to clean high-gloss cards (e.g. Prizm’s), you still want to minimize the amount of time any moisture is sitting on the surface of the card. Just like all of the tips on this page, you should test them out on a variety of lower-end cards to test the results before moving on to your best cards. Also, you should also make sure your cards are completely dry before inserting them into penny sleeves or other plastic holders.
  4. NON-SHEDDING MICROFIBER TOWELS OR MICROFIBER LENS CLOTH: In many cases, if your cards have been well cared for, you can simply use a non-shedding microfiber towel or microfiber lens cloth to remove dust and fingerprints from your cards. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when selecting a microfiber towel or cloth. First, make sure, especially if you are using microfiber towels or rags, they are completely free of any debris before wiping down your cards. Any residual debris could lead to surface scratches. Second, make sure your towel or cloth doesn’t have any loose edges or trim that will catch a corner or edge of your card. Third, dedicate your microfiber towels or lens cloths for card cleaning only. For example, do not grab a microfiber rag you recently used to wipe down your countertop or to dry off your automobile (that’s just a bad idea). Lastly, when wiping down your card(s) it’s always a good idea to wipe from the center of the card to the corner or edge. This minimizes the risk of catching a corner or edge. Again, test out some options on lower-end cards before progressing to your more expensive cards.
  5. VALUATION: This section is a bit of a sidebar, but it is still a really important part of the card preparation process. You are obviously considering sending your cards in for grading because they hold some investment value, maybe for sentimental reasons , or just to protect your cards for the long-term. Regardless of why you choose to get your cards graded and encapsulated, you will want to keep them protected and insured along the way. So, take a bit of time and research the value (or potential value) of your cards. When it comes time to ship your cards you will want to make sure the carrier’s standard insurance will cover their loss. If not, you may want to consider purchasing additional insurance to help protect against  lost or damaged packages/goods. Just something to consider…
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SELECTING THE RIGHT CARD & SHIPPING SUPPLIES

The main purpose of this overview is to provide you with a rundown of how to pack-off your cards and provide some justification for doing so. Ensuring your cards are securely packaged is super important, but, equally important, is making certain the cards can be easily accessed by the grading card company without much risk of damaging the cards. Here are some things to consider when packing your cards:

  1. USE PENNY SLEEVES WITH TABS & SEMI-RIGID CARD SLEEVES: This section is mainly about making it a bit easier for the grading company to remove your cards when they are ready to be graded. First, you want to make sure to carefully place your card in a penny sleeve and/or a penny sleeve with a built-in tab. If you use a standard penny sleeve, you will want to add a tab (or Post-It flag) on the outside/top of the sleeve with the end of the tab (or flag) hanging over the edge. Just make sure the sticky side adheres well to the penny sleeve and no adhesive can come into direct contact with the card. Second, you will want to carefully insert the penny sleeve into the semi-rigid card sleeve leaving the flag/tab portion of the inner-penny sleeve accessible. This makes it super easy for the card grading company to remove the penny sleeve from the card saver or semi-rigid card sleeve.
  2. USE CARDBOARD & TEAM BAGS OR GRADED CARD SLEEVES FOR ADDED PROTECTION: Now it’s time to add a bit of additional protection to your shipment. A common shipping prep method is to start by taking 3 or 4 of the prepared semi-rigid card sleeves and placing them between two pieces of thin cardboard that are slightly larger than the sleeves themselves. The next step is to use some painter’s tape to secure your semi-rigid card sleeves between the two pieces of cardboard. Next, take your stack of 3 or 4 cards and place them in a team bag or graded card sleeve.. Now your cards are secured and easily accessible. Repeat the above process until all of your cards are safely inside the team bags or graded card sleeves. Once you are done with this step, it’s time to add a bit more protection.
  3. USE FOAM SHEETS, BUBBLE WRAP, OR A BUBBLE MAILER FOR ADDED PROTECTION: It’s a really good idea to wrap your stack of team bags or graded card sleeves with foam sheets or bubble wrap and secure the wrap with painters tape. Or, you can insert each of your team bags or graded card sleeves inside a bubble sleeve (our favorite) and secure with painters tape. Either way, you just want to make sure your cards are secured and surrounded with some kind of soft, impact-resistant, packing material.
  4. BOXING YOUR CARDS: Now it’s time to insert your cards inside the shipping box. It’s a good idea to secure your cards inside the box using packing peanuts or another type of inexpensive protective shipping material. Now it’s time to tape up your box, purchase a shipping label (don’t forget insurance), and drop your package off at your preferred shipping provider/store (i.e. USPS, UPS, FedEx, etc.). Now, sit back, relax, and let Relic Card Grading take care of the rest.
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2022 Leaf Metal Draft Checklist – Base Autographs

Leaf Metal Draft Football Intro

The 2022 Leaf Metal Draft base autographs feature numerous color and background variations. In addition to this, every card in the 2022 Leaf Metal Draft base autograph set is serial numbered which makes each of these cards a short print of sorts. The highest run rate, per player/variation, is 40 (e.g. Silver Prismatic). There are also some highly sought-after 1-of-1 gold variations which include the gold wave, gold circles, gold crystal, mojo gold, red-flood gold circles, and prismatic gold. 

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2022 Leaf Metal Draft Football - Player & Number Checklist

BA-AG1 Ahmad Gardner
BA-AH1 Aidan Hutchinson
BA-AM1 Adonai Mitchell
BA-AP1 Alec Pierce
BA-AR1 Anthony Richardson
BA-AS1 Abram Smith
BA-AS2 Austin Stogner
BA-BH1 Breece Hall
BA-BR1 Bijan Robinson
BA-BRJ Brian Robinson Jr.
BA-BY1 Bryce Young
BA-BZ1 Bailey Zappe
BA-CA1 Calvin Austin III
BA-CH1 Christian Harris
BA-CJS C.J. Stroud
BA-CK1 Charlie Kolar
BA-CK2 Corey Kiner
BA-CO1 Cade Otton
BA-CO2 Chris Olave
BA-CR1 Cameron Rising
BA-CRJ Chris Rodriguez Jr.
BA-CS1 Carson Strong
BA-CT1 Chris Tyree
BA-CT2 Cole Turner
BA-CW1 Caleb Williams
BA-DB2 David Bell
BA-DG1 Dillon Gabriel
BA-DH1 Daxton Hill
BA-DL1 DeMarvin Leal
BA-DL3 Drake London
BA-DO1 David Ojabo
BA-DP1 D’Vonte Price
BA-DP2 Dameon Pierce
BA-DR1 Desmond Ridder
BA-DS1 Derek Stingley Jr.
BA-EE1 Emeka Egbuka
BA-EE2 Erik Ezukanma
BA-EN1 Evan Neal
BA-GC1 Grant Calcaterra
BA-GK1 George Karlaftis
BA-GN1 Garrett Nussmeier
BA-GW1 Garrett Wilson
BA-HH1 Hassan Haskins
BA-HH2 Hendon Hooker
BA-IL1 Isaiah Likely
BA-IS1 Isaiah Spiller
BA-JB2 Jaquan Brisker
BA-JB3 Jovantae Barnes
BA-JC1 Jalen Cropper
BA-JCB Ja’Corey Brooks
BA-JD1 Jahan Dotson
BA-JD2 Jerome Ford
BA-JD3 Jordan Davis
BA-JDL Jayden De Laura
BA-JE1 Jerrion Ealy
BA-JG1 Jahmyr Gibbs
BA-JH1 Jaivon Heiligh
BA-JJ1 Jermaine Johnson II
BA-JJ2 Josh Jobe

BA-JM1 John Metchie III
BA-JN1 Joseph Ngata
BA-JR1 Jaden Rashada
BA-JR2 Jaquarii Roberson
BA-JR3 Jayden Reed
BA-JR4 Jeremy Ruckert
BA-JT1 Jalen Tolbert
BA-JW1 Jalen Wydermyer
BA-JW2 Jelani Woods
BA-KA1 Kaytron Allen
BA-KB1 Kennedy Brooks
BA-KE1 Kingsley Enagbare
BA-KH1 Kyle Hamilton
BA-KP1 Kyle Philips
BA-KP2 Kenny Pickett
BA-KR1 Keilan Robinson
BA-KS1 Khalil Shakir
BA-KT1 Kayvon Thibodeaux
BA-KW1 Kenneth Walker III
BA-KW2 Kyren Williams
BA-MC1 Malik Cunningham
BA-MC2 Matt Corral
BA-MM1 Michael Mayer
BA-MW1 Malik Willis
BA-MW2 Mario Williams
BA-ND1 Nakobe Dean
BA-NI1 Nico Iamaleava
BA-PSJ Pierre Strong Jr.
BA-PT1 Payton Thorne
BA-QE1 Quinn Ewers
BA-RD1 Romeo Doubs
BA-RR1 Reggie Roberson Jr.
BA-SB1 Slade Bolden
BA-SH1 Sam Howell
BA-SH2 Sam Huard
BA-SM1 Skyy Moore
BA-SR1 Spencer Rattler
BA-TA1 Tyler Allgeier
BA-TB1 Treylon Burks
BA-TB2 Tyler Badie
BA-TD1 Travis Dye
BA-TF1 Troy Franklin
BA-TF2 Ty Fryfogle
BA-TG1 Tyler Goodson
BA-TH1 Traeshon Holden
BA-TH2 TreVeyon Henderson
BA-TM1 Tanner McKee
BA-TM2 Trent McDuffie
BA-TMB Trey McBride
BA-TS1 Ty Simpson
BA-TT2 Ty Thompson
BA-TVD Tyler Van Dyke
BA-VJJ Velus Jones Jr.
BA-WH1 Walker Howard
BA-XH1 Xavier Hutchinson
BA-XW1 Xavier Worthy
BA-ZF1 Zay Flowers
BA-ZK1 Zonovan Knight
BA-ZW1 Zamir White